NIGEL'S RAMBLES: July 2013

Saturday, July 27, 2013

Into the Bears Mouth

Climbing up Monte Orsaro via the Bocchetta dell’Orsaro was a path that I had been meaning to do for a long time. Last year I was defeated by an incredibly windy day, not the best thing to experience on a rocky mountain crest.

To avoid the July heat whilst getting up to the crest I set off from the car at six o’clock. It was still quite cool, but the high humidity was fastidious.

My first stop was Parma’s Lago Santo, In the early morning light it was spectacular, with little wind to disturb the reflections of the forest and mountains in the lake.

Lago Santo, PR

Now it was on and upwards to the “Crinale”. After a hard climb one is rewarded at Sella Marmagna with a fantastic view down towards the sea at La Spezia.

Sella Marmagna, PR

Before reaching Monte Orsaro I had to pass two mountains, Monte Marmagna and Monte Braiola.

From Monte Marmagna the receding mountain peaks in the early morning mist presented an almost abstract landscape. From the other side of the mountain the view of the rock formations of Mont Braiola make for one of the most dramatic views to be seen in the Tosco-Emilian Apennines.

View from Monte Marmagna, PR

Monte Braiola, PR

On Monte Marmagna one is presented suddenly with the vision of a huge steel cross the was erected in 1902. I pity the poor souls or more probably mules who had to drag all that steelwork up here to 1800 metres. On Monte Braiola one finds a boundry stone placed by the Ducato di Parma before the unification of Italy.

Monte Orasro from Monte Braiola, PR

Now it was time to confront the Boccetta. The path climbs steeply up the exposed south face before swinging across a gap in the vertical rock face. Then the fun starts. The path follows the crest and a bit of rock climbing is necessary to pass over the outcrops of rock along the narrow crest.

Bocchetta dell'Orsaro, MC

Finally after a hard climb I was at the top of Monte Orsaro with its strange statue .

The weather seemed to be on the point of changing as forecast, so it was time to return. It was now quite hot and humid even at 1800 metres so I took the shady forest path back to Lago Santo where I arrived in time to be able to eat a nice plate of polenta with sausages at Refugio Mariotti before returning to the car.

Monte Orsaro, PR

Lago Santo, PR

Sunday, July 21, 2013

Lago Santo to Lago Nero

The weather has been very unstable in the mountains so far this summer. Saturday was forecast as being fine all day for the Apennines in the province of Modena.

So it was up and off early to avoid a stiff climb in the July heat to Lago Santo. This is one of my favourite places in the Apennines.

Lago Santo, MO

After a fifteen minutes leaving from Lago Santo one arrives at Lago Baccio. This is one of the best panoramas in the whole of the Apennines with the chain of mountains behind the lake, especially impressive in the early morning light.

Lago Baccio, MO


Lago Santo, MO

Bee Orchid

Gilio di San Giovanni, Lillium Bulbiferem

I then decided to proceed towards Monte Rondinaio before swinging east to the Finestra del Rondinaio

(Window of the swallows nest). On the way I came across several dew ponds that are usually dry at this time of year.

Under Monte Rondinaio, MO

Semprevivo Maggiore (Sempervivum tectorum L. - CRASSULACEAE)

The Finestra del Rondinaio drops down almost vertically to Lago Turchino were a spring supplies lovely cold fresh water, a godsend in July, much better than the tepid bottled water I have in my rucksack.

Finestra del Rondinaio, MO


Gilio - Lillium Martagon

My eventual destination was Lago Nero were I hoped to arrive at the Refuge in time to get something to eat. From the lake I climbed up to Foce Giovo where a road built in the Eighteenth Century to link Modena and Lucca crosses the Crinale, At the Foce the Orrido di Bottri can be seen in the distance.

Next stop Passo di annibal, were tradition says that Hannibal passed whilst invading Italy.

At the Dente della vecchia (The Old Women’s Teeth) it was now time to head south into the province of Pistoia and down to Lago Nero.

Lago Nero, PS

Alpine Newt, Lago Nero, PS

At the Refuge I was early, the refuge was just opening. The people who run it have to arrive themselves on foot with all the provisions for the refuge. So instead of the rubbish I carry to eat, I had some strong local cheese with Tuscan bread, washed down with a couple of glasses of wine.

Contrary to expectations the weather seemed to be changing. So it was time to head back. By the time I got back to Foce di Giove I could hear thunder in the distance. Passing by a memorial to someone who had been struck by lightning up here did not tranquilize me!

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At the Foce di Giove I took the 519 footpath that drops violently downwards, before continuing fairly

easily back to Lago Santo. It was now raining as well. The weather forecast had not been very accurate today.

Saturday, July 6, 2013

Away from the World

The hike from Prato Spilla ( Parma) to Monte Sillara along the “Crinale”, with the return along the line of lakes that lie below the crest is one of my favourite walks. I have done this walk many times, but it is always enjoyable.

Monte Bragalata, PR

Passo Giovarello, PR

After a stiff climb up from the Ski Station, one is rewarded with a splendid view of the Lunigana and the sea at La Spezia. It was not the clearest of days but the view was nice all the same.

On the way I took a quick detour down to Lake Martini, one of my favourite places in the Apennines.

I had photographed this lake a month ago when there was still a lot of snow. Now just a small lump of snow at the end remained.

Lago Martini, PR

Towards Monte Sillara, PR

Wild Roses

The footpath follows the narrow crest without particular difficulty all the way to Monte Sillara, the highest point in the Province of Parma at 1850metres. Here I stopped for lunch. On the way I met a walker coming in the opposite direction who told me that I was the first person he had seen on these mountains in two days of walking. These mountains really are the place to go to get away from the world. There is nothing like the sense of peace one has up here on the “Crinale”.

Laghi Sillara, PR

Monte Sillara, PR

Now it was time to descend down to the path that joins three high level lakes.

Below Monte Sillara is Lago Sillara, two large lakes separated by a narrow gravel ridge. The water in the smaller but deeper lake has always a strong turquoise colour.