Thursday, February 5, 2015

Torrechiara



On Sunday I got around to visiting another castle that has been on my list of places to visit for ages.

The Castle of Torrechiara is to the north of Parma a couple of kilometres from Langhirano, the home of Parma Ham. This castle dominates the  foothills around the  entrance to the valley that contains the River Parma. La castle has the appearance of a castle strait out of a Fairy tale.

Castello di Torrechiara, Langhirano, PR
On the first day of the month, Italian state owned monuments and Museums are free to enter so that was a good start to my visit.

Castello di Torrechiara, Langhirano, PR

Castello di Torrechiara, Langhirano, PR
From the outside the castle seems enormous, but once inside it is quite small with two floors around the perimeter of a large central courtyard. The outside of the castle is in brickwork in the typical Emilian style.

Castello di Torrechiara, Langhirano, PR
Castello di Torrechiara, Langhirano, PR
The present castle  was built in 1448 by Pier Maria Rossi the Count of Berceto in the high Apennines on the ruins of an earlier castle as his principal residence, it was later altered in the mid sixteenth century.
Castello di Torrechiara, Langhirano, PR

Castello di Torrechiara, Langhirano, PR

Castello di Torrechiara, Langhirano, PR
Pier Maria Rossi was an able “condottiero” or mercenary to use a modern term as well as being an educated man. He was connected to the powerful Sforza’s in Milan.

Rossi had a wife who he had married for territorial reasons as well as a mistress for whom he  built a castle nearby, and so a “ménage a trios”  ensued for some time until his wife retired to a Convent. His mistress was the wife of another condottiero who probably thought better of bringing war to Rossi over the matter. 

Castello di Torrechiara, Langhirano, PR

Castello di Torrechiara, Langhirano, PR

Castello di Torrechiara, Langhirano, PR

Castello di Torrechiara, Langhirano, PR
He later fell out with the Sfoza’s and by the time of his death he was down from having thirty castles to owning  just Torrechiara castle.

Castello di Torrechiara, Langhirano, PR

Castello di Torrechiara, Langhirano, PR

Castello di Torrechiara, Langhirano, PR

Castello di Torrechiara, Langhirano, PR

The Sforza’s took over the castle in 1482 and the frescoes apart from those in Rossi’s bedroom commissioned by Rossi  date from 1575 when the castle was turned by the Sforza’s into a residence.

The inside of the castle is a riot of colour thanks to the grotesque frescoes of mostly natural subjects that colour the walls. Even though they have arrived down the ages to us in rather poor shape, to pass through the rooms of this castle is breathtaking.  

Castello di Torrechiara, Langhirano, PR

Castello di Torrechiara, Langhirano, PR

Castello di Torrechiara, Langhirano, PR

Castello di Torrechiara, Langhirano, PR

Castello di Torrechiara, Langhirano, PR

Castello di Torrechiara, Langhirano, PR

Castello di Torrechiara, Langhirano, PR

Castello di Torrechiara, Langhirano, PR
The most impressive room is that of Rossi’s bedroom which he decorated to honour his mistress  with its deep blue “sky”.
Castello di Torrechiara, Langhirano, PR

Castello di Torrechiara, Langhirano, PR

Castello di Torrechiara, Langhirano, PR

Castello di Torrechiara, Langhirano, PR
 
I spent a fascinating afternoon wandering around this wonderful place.

Castello di Torrechiara, Langhirano, PR