Saturday, September 28, 2013

The Red Carpet in The Clouds



Coming over the hill at Sparavalle I could see that where I had intended to walk that day was covered in a heavy layer of cloud. So I decided to change my destination.  The crest running from the Passo di Praderena was almost free of cloud so I decided on the classic walk (for me) along the crest to Passo Focerella, which is always a beautiful walk in autumn.

The Apennines here between Emilia and Tuscany often form a barrier, where one walks the dividing line between bad weather on one side and a nice sunny day on the other. It is a strange experience.
Clouds cover La Nuda, Cerreto, RE
I had chosen the right time of year for this walk as the Myrtle berry bushes had turned parts of the landscape into a vivid red carpet.  It is a moment I try to catch every year as it is when the Apennines are perhaps at their most beautiful.

From Passo Praderena in the province of Reggio Emilia I took the 00 footpath that runs along the Tuscan side of the crest for a few kilometres before flipping over the crest at Monte di Soraggio.

At Monte di Soraggio one has a superb view along the huge glacial circus that stretches back to Monte Sillano. With the clouds billowing over the crest and the red landscape I stopped for a while along the precarious footpath to take in the view.
Monte di Soraggio,Ligonchio,RE

Monte di Soraggio,Ligonchio,RE

Monte di Soraggio,Ligonchio,RE

Monte di Soraggio,Ligonchio,RE
Monte Cusna from Le Porraie,Ligonchio,RE
By the time I got to the Porraie, the most savage part of the walk, the bad weather coming in from Liguria and Tuscany   had imposed itself on the Emilian side as well.  I had planned to stop for lunch as usual at the little chapel at Passo Romecchio, but stopping here in the thick damp mist did not seem like a good idea.

Passo Romecchio,Ligonchio,RE

 "From a humble Sheppard 
who lived up here in this quiet sweet magical place. 
This permanent memorial on this stone.
Written for my future grandsons
and my regret"


Le Porraie,Ligonchio,RE

Le Porraie,Ligonchio,RE
Pushing on to La Forcerella and descending towards the Bargetana refuge I found myself in the sun again.
La Forcerella,Ligonchio,RE

La Forcerella,Ligonchio,RE

La Forcerella,Ligonchio,RE

La Forcerella,Ligonchio,RE

La Forcerella,Ligonchio,RE
I stopped to eat in a place where the shepherds who tended the sheep once upon a time up here must have chosen as their restaurant as all the large stones were carved with their names and dated  with years running from the nineteen twenties up to the early sixties.

It was now time to retrace my steps back to the car. The weather was improving and by the time I got back onto the crest the fog had cleared, in the battle between the weather on the two sides of the mountains.
Le Porraie,Ligonchio,RE

Le Porraie,Ligonchio,RE

Le Porraie,Ligonchio,RE

Le Porraie,Ligonchio,RE

Le Porraie,Ligonchio,RE
On my way back I met a Sheppard with a large flock of sheep and goats, protected by a large gang of dogs. including several  huge Maremmano  sheepdogs, an ancient race of dog that stretches back to antiquity, and are famed as fearless in their protection of the sheep against wolves. As he escorted me through the flock to make sure the dogs did not get the wrong idea, he complained that wolves had killed seventy sheep near here just a week ago.

In these troubled times here in Italy, with the return of the wolf,  I also see an increasing return to the future up here with increasing numbers of flocks of sheep roaming the mountains. Will we have some new inscriptions on the rocks at Bargetana?
  
  

Sunday, September 22, 2013

Third time lucky at the Alpe di Succiso



I have tried on two other occasions to arrive on  top of the Alpe di Succiso in the province of Reggio Emilia, but the weather has on both occasions defeated me.  This time I made it.

The Alpe di Succiso like Cusna is over 2000 metres and sits behind the main mountain chain that divides Emilia from Tuscany, it is also one of the least accessible mountains to be found in this stretch of the Apennines. Getting to the top  means at least a tree hour trek.
Monte Casarola - Alpe di Succiso, RE

La Nuda, Cerreto, RE from Passo Scaluccia
  This time I chose a longer but easier and more scenic route to the top.

Leaving the car at Passo  Dello Scaluccia I took the CAI 667 footpath as far as the Buca del Moro. Here I then took the 669 footpath to the Rio Pascolo refuge, which is to be found at the start of the glacial valley that leads up to the Sella di Monte Casarola. This first part of the walk through the forest below the mountain is on an almost level footpath.  It is also quite boring.
Buca, Del Moro, RE

Buca del Moro, RE

Buca del Moro, RE
 After the refuge the fun starts.  The glacial valley  rises in steps  from 1600 meters to  over 1900 metres.

It is quite hard work to get to the top.  This valley is very scenic with the contras between the grey rock and the lush vegetation.  The crisp morning light brought out the autumn colours of the myrtle berry  plants that form the vegetation here.

Rio Pascolo, RE

The glacial valley below the Sella di Casarola, RE

The glacial valley below the Sella di Casarola, RE

The glacial valley below the Sella di Casarola, RE

The glacial valley below the Sella di Casarola, RE
After reaching the Sella and after a short rest, it was time to push on towards the Alpe.

The footpath runs along a narrow crest with nice views on both sides which curves round and up to the Alpe.
Sella di Casarola, RE

Sella di Casarola, RE

Between Sella di Casarola and Alpe di Succiso, RE

Between Sella di Casarola and Alpe di Succiso, RE

Between Sella di Casarola and Alpe di Succiso, RE
 The views from the Alpe  are fantastic, particularly impressive is the view across to the Groppo di Camporaghena. 
Alpe di Succiso, RE

Monte Casarola from Alpe di Succiso, RE

Groppo di Camporaghena from Alpe di Succiso, RE

Groppo di Camporaghena.

Groppo di Camporaghena from Alpe di Succiso, RE

Groppo di Camporaghena and Monte Acuto from Alpe di Succiso, RE

Groppo di Camporaghena from Alpe di Succiso, RE


 Alpe di Succiso, RE

 Alpe di Succiso, RE

The weather had now started to change as it often does up here. So it was time to retrace my steps back to the car. Being all downhill or flat it took me much less time than I had anticipated to get back to Passo Scaluccia. Looking back the mountains were now covered with cloud. 
 Alpe di Succiso, RE

Sella di Casarola, RE

Sella di Casarola, RE

Sella di Casarola, RE

Sella di Casarola, RE


This is a walk to do again on a nice cold clear winter day to really appreciate the views from this mountain.


Sunday, September 15, 2013

Sella di Monte Acuto



Summer is coming to an end here in Italy. Driving up to Passo del Giogo I noticed that the foliage on the trees is starting change colour.

Starting from Passo del Giogo the 00 footpath seemed to be the quickest way of getting up to the Sella di Monte Acuto, where one is offered one of the most spectacular views of the high Apeninnes. 

The path is fairly  easy for the first half until the Foce di Torsana, but then it’s a stiff steep climb up to the Sella. Even though the last part of the path is rather steep, this is in fact the quickest way up.

Force di Tosana, Cormano, MS

Force di Tosana, Cormano, MS

Sheppard’s hut under Monte Palera, Cormano, MS

Sheppard’s hut under Monte Palera, Cormano, MS

Sheppard’s hut under Monte Palera, Cormano, MS
It is on these steep footpaths that I really appreciate the reduced weight of my newish  4/3 cameras compared to my old DSLR kit.

When I arrived the mountains were covered in cloud, but I was lucky, the strong wind cleared the cloud for a few minutes and I was rewarded with a fantastic view of Groppi di Camporaghena.  


Sella di Monte Acuto, Cormano, MS

Sella di Monte Acuto, Cormano, MS
Sella di Monte Acuto, Cormano, MS

Sella di Monte Acuto, Cormano, MS

Sella di Monte Acuto, Cormano, MS

Sella di Monte Acuto, Cormano, MS

Sella di Monte Acuto, Cormano, MS

The myrtle berry plants are starting to change colour, so in a few days time these mountains will be covered in a red violet carpet.
 
Passo del Giogo, Cormano, MS
On the way back the bad weather  coming in from Liguria made a fantastic cloudscape.
 
From Sparavalle, RE

From Sparavalle, RE
From Sparavalle, RE