NIGEL'S RAMBLES: November 2023

Friday, November 24, 2023

S. Giovanni, Vigolo Marchese and S. Nicomede, Salsomaggiore

In the small out of the way village of Vigolo Marchese, near Piacenza, we can see an important Romanesque monument. A splendid Romanesque church, with a circular baptistry can be seen. The complex dates from the beginning of the Eleventh century and was founded as a monastery.

The church in common with many of these old buildings, has seen many alterations and restorations over the years. In 1572 the layout was rotated 180° with the alter placed near to the original entrance and where we enter today. In 1917 the layout was spun backwards to the original layout. The interior gives the impression of a heavy handed restoration, as the patina of the centuries is missing.

The Baptistry is probably the most interesting part of this complex. It is probably older than the church. A Roman column capital has been recycled as a font. We cannot be sure the Baptistry was built as a Baptistry, because the complex was founded as a monastery, which had no use for such a building. It may have been built originally as a church for the villagers. We will never know.

S. Giovanni, Vigolo Marchese, PC

S. Giovanni, Vigolo Marchese, PC

The little church of San Nicomede is easy to miss, in the vast countryside near Salsomaggiore, and from the outside seems to be a building of little interest. A church has been here since the ninth century and altered in the fourteenth century. Enter and there is little to see. But go down the narrow stairs into the crypt and a we see why this little chapel is worth a visit.

A couple of Roman columns have been reused to support the roof of the crypt. The other two columns are medieval. You feel you you have stepped back in time down there.

San Nicomede, Salsomaggiore, PR

Thursday, November 16, 2023

A Game of Chess

I was in Piacenza for work, afterwards, I went to see a building on my Romanesque "hit list". Basilica di San Savino, from the outside, looks like just another suburban neo Baroque church of little interest. But inside there are some wonderful medieval mosaics, including a panel depicting a chess game. At some point in time the interior was brought back to the Romanesque condition. It has some nice column capitals too.

When I arrived, there was a funeral, so I went off and saw some other things in the city. But this turned out to be a lucky moment to photograph the the mosaics behind the altar, as the lighting was still on and when I asked the verger, who was clearing up, where the chess player mosaic was, he kindly removed the carpet that was covering it. and let me get close to them to take some pictures. The crypt was easier as lights turn on when you enter.

San Saviano, Piacenza

First, take a look at the Presbytery

San Saviano, Piacenza

Now down to the Crypt.

San Saviano, Piacenza

The church also has some lovely column capitals

San Saviano, Piacenza

I also managed to fit in a visit to the Cathedral, a huge massive construction. The tradesmen who contributed to its construction are honoured with several little carvings on the columns depicting their trades.

Duomo Piacenza

The Crypt

Duomo Piacenza

Basilica Sant’Antonino, was Piacenza's first cathedral. Much altered over the years, it has a lovely peaceful cloister. Romanesque, Gothic and Baroque are mixed in together in this church.

Basilica Sant’Antonino,Piacenza

I would like to go back to Piacenza to explore the Duomo and the city, a little bit more thoroughly as I am sure there is lots more to see in this town.

Friday, November 24, 2023

S. Giovanni, Vigolo Marchese and S. Nicomede, Salsomaggiore

Thursday, November 16, 2023

A Game of Chess

Copyright 2023Nigel Voak