A Hidden Gem, in Bardolino

 

On my explorations of Romanesque Italy, often a plain nondescript exterior hides an incredibly interesting interior. San Zeno in Bardolino is such a case.

The elegant little church of San Zeno in Bardolino is one of the oldest churches on Lake Garda. Externally it appears rather simple and sober, and it does not show any signs that it might be interesting to explore the interior. It is well camouflaged among the houses in the courtyard.

San Zeno, Bardolino, VR

It is very small, with a single nave with barrel vaults, and an impressive lantern tower and a slightly raised altar.

San Zeno, Bardolino, VR

San Zeno, Bardolino, VR

The building dates from the 8th or early 9th century and was initially a private church belonging to the monks of the Abbey of San Zeno in Verona, who used it as their place of worship in Bardolino. The church was an important location for the local people, as it was the centre where the Abbey collected taxes and tithe.

Not only did it become a hub for various activities, but it also proved to be a very resistant building: it was probably the only church in Verona to have survived unscathed the violent earthquake that struck Verona and its surroundings on 3 January 1117. Measuring 6.4 on the Richter scale.

Thanks to restoration work carried out in 1960, two niches and fragments of several ninth century frescoes have been recovered. The niches in the side arms depict a Madonna and Child and Saint Peter, respectively, both with surprisingly bright colours and clear contours; on the apse wall, there is a Christ inside a mandorla supported by two angels.

San Zeno, Bardolino, VR

San Zeno, Bardolino, VR

San Zeno, Bardolino, VR

San Zeno must have been very colourful, as demonstrated by the still vivid tones of the pictorial decorations that probably covered the entire interior wall. One of the columns in the nave has an original Roman Ionic capital.

San Zeno, Bardolino, VR

San Zeno, Bardolino, VR

San Zeno, Bardolino, VR

San Zeno, Bardolino, VR