Monday, February 20, 2023

Mixing It in Parma

 On first sight, Santa Croce, Parma, does not look like it is a church worth visiting, the time worn plain brick facade just hints at an ordinary church of little artistic merit. 

Santa Croce, Parma

But entering this little church reveals a curious mix of Romanesque carved capitals, alongside colourful Baroque decoration. Like a lot of these buildings, this church, consecrated in 1222, was heavily modified in 1663, after part of the roof collapsed. The dome was constructed and the church was shortened. Also a spectacular side chapel was added. In 1904, the facade was remodelled in the Romanesque style.

The church gets its name from a relic, in this case a fragment of wood from the crucifixion cross. In the nave our eyes are drawn to the primitive capitals, with a wonderful Centaur with bow and arrow, twin tailed mermaids and other medieval beasts and personalities.

Santa Croce, Parma

  

Santa Croce, Parma. The altar contains the relic.


Santa Croce, Parma

Santa Croce, Parma

Santa Croce, Parma

Santa Croce, Parma

Santa Croce, Parma

Santa Croce, Parma

Santa Croce, Parma

Santa Croce, Parma

The Cappella di San Giuseppe that juts out from the main church is a riot of colour, covered entirety with colourful frescoes and an altar depicting the Holy family.

(Update 10/1/24. I reshot the Capella with a much wider lens)

Santa Croce, Parma


Santa Croce, Parma

Santa Croce, Parma


Santa Croce, Parma

Santa Croce, Parma

Santa Croce, Parma

Santa Croce, Parma

Santa Croce, Parma





Friday, February 17, 2023

Romanesque meets Gothic in Parma

The Duomo di Parma, is one of the four major Romanesque cathedrals that line the Via Emilia from Piacenza to Modena. Like the others  it has been altered over time, and perhaps the sixteenth century frescoes remove a lot of the medieval atmosphere. The famous Baptistry, is a junction between Romanesque and Gothic.

 

Duomo di Parma


Duomo di Parma,

Duomo di Parma,

Duomo di Parma,


Duomo di Parma, Cupola by Coreggio

Duomo di Parma,

Duomo di Parma,

The most important artist who worked here in the medieval period was Benedetto Antelami whose "Deposizione" is an early precursor of Gothic sculpture. Just a fragment survives of a much larger work.


Benedetto Antelami's Deposizione, Duomo di Parma


Benedetto Antelami's Deposizione, Duomo di Parma

Benedetto Antelami's Deposizione, Duomo di Parma

Benedetto Antelami's Deposizione, Duomo di Parma

Benedetto Antelami's Deposizione, Duomo di Parma

Benedetto Antelami's Deposizione, Duomo di Parma

Benedetto Antelami's Deposizione, Duomo di Parma

Benedetto Antelami is also present in the Baptistry with his "months" cycle of sculptures, which show the activities typical for each month in his agricultural society. 

Battistero, Parma

Battistero, Parma

Battistero, Parma

Battistero, Parma

Battistero, Parma

Benedetto Antelami's "Months", Battistero, Parma

Benedetto Antelami's "Months", Battistero, Parma

Benedetto Antelami's "Months", Battistero, Parma

Benedetto Antelami's "Months", Battistero, Parma

Benedetto Antelami's "Months", Battistero, Parma

Benedetto Antelami's "Months", Battistero, Parma

Benedetto Antelami's "Months", Battistero, Parma

Benedetto Antelami's "Months", Battistero, Parma

Benedetto Antelami's "Months", Battistero, Parma

Benedetto Antelami's "Months", Battistero, Parma

Benedetto Antelami's "Months", Battistero, Parma

Benedetto Antelami's "Months", Battistero, Parma


Tuesday, February 14, 2023

A Gothic Prison

I came across a fascinating Gothic church in Parma, which has a curious story. Chiesa di San Francesco del Prato, on the north side of the town was once one of the cities most important churches. Founded in 1240 by the Franciscan order, on the then outskirts of Parma, the church became popular with the most wealthy citizens of the city. It was completed in 1398, and marks a transition between Romanesque and Gothic, in its Italian form.

In 1804, with the arrival of Napoleon Bonaparte's troops, the monks were expelled and the church was turned into a prison. Arches were bricked up, internal floors were built and barred windows were cut into the outer walls.  The frescoes were painted over with uniformly grey paint.  

The monastic complex remained the city's prison until 1993. In 2018 restauration work was started, bringing some of the past splendour back to this church. In 2021 the church was reconsecrated. 

On the outside, you can see where the prison windows have been filled in with brickwork of a slightly different colour. On the inside, atmosphere is of a partial ruin, with fragments of frescoes on the columns and the scaffolding for the ongoing restauration work. 

Chiesa di San Francesco del Prato, Parma

Chiesa di San Francesco del Prato,

Chiesa di San Francesco del Prato,

Chiesa di San Francesco del Prato,

Chiesa di San Francesco del Prato,

Chiesa di San Francesco del Prato,

Chiesa di San Francesco del Prato,

Chiesa di San Francesco del Prato,

Chiesa di San Francesco del Prato,

Chiesa di San Francesco del Prato,

On one side of the church. we find the  chapel of the "Immacolata Concezione", added in 1472. It escaped the change of use of the main church, but by 1913 it too was abandoned and turned into a store. Much of the decoration dates from the eightieth century. 

Cappella dell'Immacolata Concezione, Parma

Cappella dell'Immacolata Concezione, Parma

The "Chiesa di Santa Cristina", on the main high street, looks pretty unpromising from the outside. Money ran out during its construction, and the bare brick facade was never decorated with marble. On the inside the Apse was not built. Trompe-l'Å“il was used to give the impression of an apse. The church dates from 1649, and is a triumph of colour. 

I first visited this church many years ago and the faded grey frescoes gave the place a sad atmosphere. I was there because I Engineered the scaffolding, that was installed for the restoration of the decoration. I visited some years ago for curiosity, and was stunned by the transformation. I finally returned to photograph it seriously on this visit to Parma.  

Chiesa di Santa Cristina, Parma

Chiesa di Santa Cristina, Parma

Chiesa di Santa Cristina, Parma

Chiesa di Santa Cristina, Parma

Chiesa di Santa Cristina, Parma

Chiesa di Santa Cristina, Parma