NIGEL'S RAMBLES: The Rocca di San Secondono. A Suprise.

Sunday I decided to visit the Rocca di San Secondo near Parma. This is one of the lesser known Emilian castles and I was not sure that I would see. I stumbled across this castle after a visit to the more famous nearby Fontanellato a few weeks ago. But the castle was closed.

Rocca di San Secondo, PR

Cannon balls. Rocca di San Secondo, PR

Rocca di San Secondo, PR

From the outside the castle is not very impressive as a large part of the castle has been demolished over the years, but what remains inside as I was to find out is quite breathtaking.

Rocca di San Secondo, PR

Like most of the castles in the area the castle started out as a fortress in the fourteenth century and later was transformed into a noble palace by the ruling Rossi Family.

Sala di Bellerofonte. Rocca di San Secondo, PR

The castle withstood several sieges laid by the Sforaza’s until finally falling in 1483. The castle then stood derelict for some years before the Rossi’s regained control at the end of another war. The castle as we know it then started to take shape.

Sala delle Favole, Rocca di San Secondo, PR

The castle was confiscated like many other castles in the Parma area by the Farnese family who had become the rulers of this area in 1633. By the time the Rossi family regained the castle twenty years later the castle had lost importance for them. They even demolished a large part of the castle in the nineteenth century to reduce the running costs of the complex. In 1919 the castle became the property of the Comune.

Sala di Momo, Rocca di San Secondo, PR

The strange thing about this castle is that in most of the smaller rooms only the ceilings are frescoed. The walls are bare. I was told that this is because the walls were originally covered with tapestries to help keep the rooms a bit warmer.

Sala dell'Asino d'Oro, Rocca di San Secondo, PR

As one progresses from one room to another the frescoed ceilings get better and more curious until arriving at the jaw dropping splendour of the great hall.

My favourite room was the small room with the series of frescoes telling the tale of Lucio who is turned into a donkey, but still has the tastes of a man. He also gets involved in some adventures some of them quite rude.The “Sala delle Favole” or the Fable Room is also fascinating.

Rocca di San Secondo, PR

The main hall called the “La Sala delle Gesta Rossiane” designed to impress tells the story of the Rossi family’s military exploits.

Rocca di San Secondo, PR

This castle must rank as one of the most spectacular Emalian castles that I have seen, much more interesting than the inside of the nearby and more famous Fontalellato Castle. Like most minor Italian monuments the lack of resources shows. But the castle is well worth a visit. The enthusiasm of the Guide in telling the story of the castle and pointing things out also made the visit most enjoyable.